Where does the story of California begin? It’s not an easy question to answer, whether we’re talking about time or location. The Indigenous people of California have called the area home for roughly 20,000 years. Europeans first arrived in the 1500s. But the permanent occupation of California by Europeans did not begin until 1769, when Spanish friar Junípero Serra founded Mission San Diego de Alcalá in what is now San Diego.
It is important to note that while these missions tell a vital chapter of the history of where they are located, if not the history of the United States writ large, it is an incomplete history without acknowledging the impact on the Native peoples who once inhabited the land where these missions were established. The establishment of missions frequently led to conflict, forced labor, the eradication of Native culture and customs, and the introduction of disease for which Native populations had no resistance.
Spanish Franciscans went on to start 21 missions in total from 1769 through 1823, forming a trail that is vital to charting the course of how California came to be. Visitors today can learn that unique history with a visit to any or all of the 21 missions—though some that stand today are replicas. That includes Serra’s first San Diego outpost, which has been rebuilt several times but has stood on the same site near the banks of the San Diego River since 1774.
It is in fact this church that gave this area of San Diego its name: Mission Valley. Located just minutes from San Diego International Airport and iconic destinations like SeaWorld, San Diego de Alcalá is still an active basilica. For groups so inclined, attending mass would be a great way to see the parish “in action.” But for groups of non-Catholics or those more interested in the history of the place, the campus is open for self-guided tours and offers a visitors center and gift shop.
Serra’s trail of 21 missions extends north from there. Perhaps most famous for the legend of the migratory swallows said to return there each spring, Mission San Juan Capistrano was founded in 1776 and is considered the “jewel” of the California missions, attracting 300,000 visitors a year, the mission says. Conveniently located in Orange County, the mission offers group reservations including self-guided, guided, and guided VIP tours.
One other Golden State mission you’ll want to consider is farther north up the coast in scenic Santa Barbara. Mission Santa Barbara dates to 1786 and today contains a museum, a gift shop, and a historic mausoleum which is the final resting place both for Franciscan friars and important citizens of Santa Barbara, telling a vital story of the city’s history. The grounds today are open for tours and also host special events like “Drinks at Dusk,” a summer event series allowing visitors to experience the mission in a totally different way.
Credit: Arizona Office of Tourism
Looking beyond California, the influence of the mission system is prevalent across the West. In Tucson, Arizona, stands Mission San Xavier del Bac. The mission was established in 1692, but the current building dates to 1797 and is the oldest European structure in Arizona. The mission is open daily and offers docent-led tours at no cost every day of the week except Sunday.
Some of the oldest missions in the U.S. exist in New Mexico, including San Miguel Chapel, completed around 1610. The current building is roughly 100 years newer and is an excellent example of the traditional adobe architecture found throughout New Mexico. The church today is home to mass, tours, and a variety of performances.
Not far away is San Estévan del Rey Mission Church, located high on an isolated mesa that was once part of a pueblo home to the Acoma people. The Acoma fiercely resisted European influence, though the mission constructed in the mid-1600s survived intact, and today a team of Acoma volunteers helps care for and maintain the building. It is open daily to visitors for a small fee.
They say everything is bigger in Texas, and the vast Lone Star State is of course home to many extant missions. You might know the Mission San Antonio Valero by its later name—The Alamo. Its unique transition from Catholic outpost to military fort to symbol of Texas liberty is a fascinating story that can be explored through guided tours, historic artifacts, and living history.
By Todd Kortemeier
Main Image: Mission San Diego de Alcalá, San Diego, California; Credit: Adobe/JACOB
